Beautiful Santorini

We were fortunate to not have any difficulties with either of our Olympic flights.We had heard some ‘interesting’ stories about Olympic re delays and other problems. I can only report it all as a positive experience. Our first flight was from Tirana (Albania) to Athens (about an hour and a quarter) and then Athens to Santorini (40 minutes). We flew into Santorini at 9.45pm. A short transfer (15 minutes) and we arrived at our villas. Ron, Liz, Gert and Steve stayed at Villa Renos (where they have stayed before). Marie, Dave, John and I stayed at the property immediately next door at Villa Asteros. It is unbelievable how close they are.

As with most places there is a range of configurations in our villas - there are only 5 in the property stacked one above the other all with great views. Our villa is a studio type arrangement with a kitchenette. Dave and Marie started off with a similar villa 2 floors and many steps down from us. They were very lucky when the manager offered to bring them up a floor. This means they are now in a villa built into a cave with beds for 6 people in compartmented rooms. They also have a dining table and a lounge section. Their bathroom is quite spacious compared with those in the smaller villas. This certainly was an impressive upgrade for them. The difference in the room rate is €100 per night- their upgraded villa is normally €260 per night.

We are very happy in our villa - the view from our bed and also from the kitchenette window is stunning! We are in Fira on Santorini. There are many other towns including: Oia, Perissa, Akrotiri and Kamari. To get to another township the local busfare is either €1.20 up to €2 - think A$2.50.

Yesterday Ron, Liz, John and I went out to Perissa. Liz was on a mission to have a look at the accommmodation she has booked her daughter into in 3 week’s time. It is a much more casual and laid back beach place. It has a nice feel to it but the course black sandy gravel on the beach does nothing to enhance. The water is very clean and I must admit looked inviting - alas no swimsuit so that didn’t happen! John and Ron enjoyed the views - especially of the topless sunbathers.

One of the numerous bars/restaurants had a sign out on the beach saying ‘Free hugs and kisses’. Of course that is just what I like - so this became another ‘Japanese moment’. Just as I was about to put my arms around the sign a guy called out ‘wait’. I looked up to see a very handsome man coming towards me - he kindly offered to give me a kiss and hug - he was ‘very easy on the eye’ so I had no reason to deny him the opportunity! He even offered ‘seconds’! Of course this had nothing to do with the fact that he was drumming up business for his restaurant/ bar. We continued walking until after quite a walk we found the hotel Liz was searching for.

On accomplishing this we headed back and decided to have a drink at the ‘Hugs and Kisses’ bar. Again he offered both Liz and I the service stated on the board. He asked what we would like to drink - we looked at the drink list but he said leave it to me - ‘If you don’t like you don’t pay’. So we left it up to him - although Ron, not being a spirit drinker, stuck with beer. Our ‘Adonis’did ask if we partook of alcohol. He came back with Strawberry daquiris - made with freshly blended strawberries for Liz and me and a Mojito for John. Delicious! We finished our drinks and sat enjoying the scenery - different views for each of us - you already have heard what John and Ron enjoyed observing! Then, along came Adonis ( his real name sounded like Candy but I need to check with Liz for the correct spelling) with 4 more shot glasses of drink. This time they were ‘Orgasms’ topped with yummy cream. Ron politely declined again because of his dislike of spirits so he was brought out a beer in the same sized glass - that was a giggle! There was one ‘Orgasm’ left over so what did he do? Went back and made another so that Liz and I had 2 ‘Orgasms’ each - and it is rude to decline such an offer - but neither Liz or I could be described as greedy, though!

The prices of food and souvenirs seem less expensive there than those found in Fira. Sadly I doubt we will get to any other towns this trip - we will have to wait until next trip. Santorini is a place which we could certainly be drawn back to. It is a beautiful view looking down on the water with the ocean liners in. Of course this means the prices in the shops rise when the liners are in.

The jewellery street - also called gold street - is amazing but the prices are expensive. I have priced quite a few items but don’t think I will be making any purchases. We have also looked at rings for John - haven’t made a final decision as yet. Today is Liz and Ron’s wedding anniversary so last night after dinner they purchased a new bead for Liz’s Pandora. To celebrate their anniversary we all went to a highly recommended restaurant called “Mama’s House”. Wonderful food and boy is Mama a character! Her only child, a son, lives in Perth. She was telling us that she closes the restaurant during the off season October to February and heads to Perth for 2 months and does the grandma thing! I think she bosses Papa around incredibly! - he seemed very meek and mild - she was just the opposite!

No matter where you are at Fira there are steps, steps and more steps. To get to our villa from the road level above us we have to descend over 60 steps. We can hear the bells of the donkeys as they walk up from and down to the port below. We haven’t had a donkey ride yet. Most of the paths around the town are cobble stones - good flat walking shoes are necessary! My Hush Puppy sandals are perfect!

We have a supermarket not far away and have been able to purchase goods to make breakfasts, lunches, snacks and even dinner one night here at the villa. This has been a real advantage! Liz and Ron have their breakfasts included. We had breakfast with them in their breakfast room the first morning - wow what a feast - about 5 courses including ‘desert’ for breakfast!

Yesterday afternoon John and I headed up to a high point of Fira with excellent views of the most photographed and picturesque section. Just beautiful. We have also found time to rest out on our balcony. Sunset on our balcony is stunning!

Today is the last day of my antibiotics (Fromilid - the name of the drug - is the only word on the packet that I can read.) I am still ‘chesty’ in regard to my cough - but feel much better - feeling about 90% now. I am so pleased to finish the medication as it has left a horrible taste in my mouth. I was tempted to not finish the complete course but didn’t want to risk a relapse! I am still getting a bit breathless when climbing up steps. Should be interesting this afternoon as we are planning to take a cruise to another part of Santorini where we can have a swim in hot springs after hiking up the volcano which will probably be a challenge for me at present.

We have been very lucky with the weather - the sun has shone each day for us here, but the breeze carries a bite at times.

Last Day in Albania

Slept in this morning - got to breakfast at 9:30 - not much to choose from. This was a very basic continental breakfast. For a 3 star hotel, this place lacks some of the expected benefits, but is a good experience of things Albanian. The shower in the bathroom deserves special mention - there is no shower curtain or glass panel to prevent the water from flooding the floor. I can only imagine how Ron would have managed - a 6 foot 4 plus trying to keep the water within the shower base would have proved almost impossible. The young boy (13 years old) Hamde, who works here when not at school, has been very helpful to us, not only translating but teaching Liz, Marie and Gert how to play a new game of cards. They must have enjoyed the game, spending several hours yesterday afternoon at it. It is interesting to note that Hamde, who would normally have been at school today only spent an hour there because the teacher was absent, so he came home!!

Having been told that we could check out at 11am, we were then notified that the rooms were needed earlier and so a mad rush to pack so that we could clear the rooms by 10:30 am then ensued. We made it with minutes to spare. The intrepid Marie, Dave and Gert went walking and returned at about 10, looking a little the worse for wear. Gert needed a drink of bubbly water to clear the pollution from her lungs! Marie was thankful she survived the terrors of the road crossings and Dave simply enjoyed the "fun".

As Liz, Ron, Jill and I headed out on our walk, we noticed some kerfuffle in the road outside the hotel. The police, who occupy the premises opposite the hotel had blocked the street so that a couple of police vans (carrying some suspicious characters we suspect) could make a quick exit. We counted 2 police armed with semi-automatic weapons and several others carrying side arms. Even so, the traffic banked up, honked their horns and showed their impatience at being held up. One even had an out and out yelling match with one of the officers.

After this excitement, we went shopping! (read browsing, but browsing with intent on the part of Liz and Jill) Liz was on a mission to purchase gifts for her daughters and friends. Some success was achieved, including another charm for Liz's pandora bracelet. Jill was sorely tempted but managed to resist. We continued on to the Tirana International Hotel (more to the standard of our previous hotels) and made a vow that our next visit to Tirana would include staying there. An interesting building caught my eye on the way - a university dedicated to UFOs - at least that's what the sign said. It seemed a bit alien to me!

By this time, lunch-time hunger pangs were gnawing so Jill and I had a pizza and a club sandwich while Liz and Ron returned to the scene of last night's dinner for something a little more up-market (and expensive).

Four seasons in one today - rain, cool breeze, bright sunshine. All we need is snow for the complete package. Albania is not a place I would rush back to, but Jill and I have definitely enjoyed the experience of being here. It is a land of contrasts in terms of its development - from decrepit shanty towns to modern and luxurious apartment blocks. The modern airport is a prime example of what can be done here. Like most parts of the world, the rich and well heeled enjoy a comfortable life while the battlers do just that - battle. The streets are full of what we would describe as luxury cars - BMWs, Mercedes, Volvos, Fiats - but they range from brand new to those that hang together because the rust hasn't completely given way yet.  

Soon we head off to the airport for our flight to Athens and transit on to Santorini. We are looking forward to that.

Winding our way to Albania

We woke to rain and thunder - at least today would be a travelling day. The mini-bus (a different one this time) arrived early with two drivers - again no English but at least these two knew how to smile. Packing the luggage proved to be a challenge, but eventually, everyone and everything was aboard and we set off south towards unknown Albania.

For the first half hour or so, we followed the coast road - a winding, picturesque section of the country which shows promise of major development during the next decade. Due to 10 people breathing, combined with the weather it was necessary to keep wiping the windows to enable us to see the view. Already the richer Russians have made their presence felt. Unfortunately, the steady rain and fogged up windows made Kodak moments an impossibility. After about 50 minutes, for some strange reason, the driver made a sharp left hand turn and headed inland. For the next few hours, we travelled through the hinterland and saw many small farming communities - this was rural Montenegro, complete with shepherds and their sheep, cowgirls and their cows as well as a collection of goats, chooks, ducks and dogs.

We reached the border with Albania and went through the customary noting of passport details, the border guard coming onto the bus to eyeball each of us and leaving with our passports. He returned a few minutes later and we were off into Albania. About a kilometre down the road, Ron complained that he didn’t have a stamp in his passport. This seemed to cause some concern with the two drivers who promptly checked their own passports then turned the bus around and headed back to the border checkpoint. Upon arrival, the main driver took our passports back to the small office and returned a few minutes later with our passports duly stamped. Ron was happy!

Albania - what can I say? It would seem that the aim in the average Albanian’s life is to dump as much rubbish in as many conspicuous places as possible. Rubbish was everywhere!

The countryside flattened out into broad valleys, the mountains still looming in the distance, covered in low clouds. At least the rain began to ease. We passed through several small villages as we approached Tirana, the capital. The living conditions of the people in these places leaves much to be desired. In other parts of the world, the inhabited buildings would have been condemned but not so here. People seem to live in whatever structure they can find - at least in the smaller villages. As we approached the capital, the structures began to look a lot more stable. Much construction was apparent, with many 2 and 3 storey houses either half built or recently completed. We commented on the number of furniture stores that lined the road - we must have passed at least 30, all full of modern and ornately finished tables, chairs, lounges, wardrobes etc. It would seem that the furniture business is big time here. Some of the stores were so new that they didn’t even have front doors or windows - just the empty shell of a soon to be completed concrete building.

The other notable observation is the number of ‘butcher’s stands’- couldn’t call them shops. Just a type of shed with slaughtered carcasses hanging in the open air. This reminded us of Morocco!

Then we hit the city! Tirana seems to be one big traffic jam. We crawled through traffic for almost an hour before we arrived at our hotel. The driver eventually found the back entrance to the hotel - not a good look! - and we were able to park the mini-bus and off-load everything. Of course there wasn’t a lift so we had to carry our luggage upstairs - the hotel staff were extremely helpful here and, soon we were safely inside our rooms.

We set off to explore the nearby streets, but soon decided that to leave the street on which the hotel was situated or to cross the busy intersection just up the road was not a wise move. Liz, Ron, Jill and I wandered the street - this part of town was rife with travel agents. This suited Liz as she wanted to check about our transfer to the airport and our flight on to Athens tomorrow. After that was all sorted, we found a modern fast food outlet and enjoyed a pizza and a club sandwich. This was followed by a little window shopping, the purchase of more batteries for Jill’s camera and the decision to exhange our Euros for Leke (pronounced lecca), the Albanian currency. In this country, it is easy to be a millionaire! A leke is worth about an Aussie cent. Walking around with several thousand leke in your pocket might seem a bit extravagant but 1000 leke is about 10 bucks! Poor Ron, he still had 100 kuna from Croatia and he tried to exchange that for Albanian currency - no luck, they wouldn’t accept it. Luckily he was able to exchange at another agency later in the day. There are about 5 Croatian kunas to the Aussie $. We came across a subterranean bar (downstairs into a cellar) called the Melbourne Bar and decided that a drink there was essential. Very modern, very red and very loud music! There were several little grottoes within the bar and we debated whether or not this was a place where “working girls” plied their trade. The jury is still out on that one. Needless to say, Ron was glad to get out of the place. Ron’s only inclination to pink things is his camera (he got it cheap because it was pink).

After a brief nana nap, Jill and I decided to walk a little before dinner. We headed in the opposite direction, but still on the same street. Everywhere we looked, there was evidence of decay and a general run down appearance. Vendors wishing to sell their wares, simply set up on any street and waited for passing customers. Jill commented that the place reminded her of Airds, a housing commission area near Campbelltown - just a feeling of “what does the future hold for people here?” Maybe in 10 years or so, there will be changes.

Dinner was enjoyed in a modern bar not far from the Melbourne Bar. Gert came to our rescue as no-one spoke English but the Chef spoke German. So, she translated and we ordered. The meal for 8 of us cost almost 10000 leke, including drinks - cheap really!

Off to Montenegro

A new country today. Liz had managed to talk the company transferring us from Dubrovnik to Budva into giving us a 14 seater mini-bus rather than an 8 seater van - think more luggage than people! The driver arrived a few minutes late and we proceeded to load up the bus. After much struggling and cursing, all luggage and personnel were safely on board. We soon discovered the driver spoke no English, so the trip was a rather non-informative affair, despite the best efforts of Liz to attempt communication.

Once we crossed the border into Montenegro (this translates into Black Mountain) the scenery changed dramatically - from bare limestone crags to tree covered mountains. We stopped at the border soon after the driver pulled into a service station to fill up and take our passport details. The crossing took a little while because the driver was given another piece of paper to complete despite his protests that he had already completed his log. Bureaucracy gone mad again! We followed the very scenic coast road until we came to a huge fjord - apparently the largest this far south in the northern hemisphere. Towards the end of this fjord is the small town of Kotor.

As we approached, we could see 2 huge ocean liners pulled up at the docks. Their size dwarfed the buildings which made up the old town. We met our local guide Sanja who took us on a short tour of the old town itself - reminiscent of Venice with its narrow cobbled streets and boutique shops every few metres. This town seemed to have more squares than most - each one having its own name. Originally, the squares were named after the merchants who sold their goods - the square of meat, the square of shoes etc. There is even a square for the churches! The first and largest square has a large clock tower centuries old and still working. In front of the clock tower is a tall pyramid to which recalcitrants were tied to suffer the indignity and humiliation of having tomatoes and other sundry groceries thrown at them for their naughtiness or crime committed.

Inside the smallest of the many churches in the old town of Kotor Jill spoke to a priest - think much sign language and pointing accompanied by questioning looks and blank stares from both. In the background, sacred music was playing  and Jill, being Jill, spied a copy of the CD. It turns out that the priest she was talking to was trying to tell her that he was singing the tenor part on the disk! Needless to say, Jill just had to buy a copy!

Surrounding the old town was another wall - the intrepid wall climbers - Liz, Marie and Dave - had to test themselves against the much younger Sanja who claimed that it only took her 10 minutes to walk the 700 steps to the old church perched high on the hill. Off they set with great enthusiasm - Dave claims it only took them 13 minutes to make it to the church. Maybe his watch is running a little slow! Goodbye Sanja and back on the bus heading to Budva with our silent driver.

Arriving in Budva some 50 minutes later, our bus driver managed to get us lost. He stopped several times and asked directions to our hotel and, finally, a taxi driver told him that the Bella Vista was on the outskirts of town. By this time his silence was accompanied by body language clearly showing his increasing frustration. When we finally spotted the hotel, he had to drive past almost a kilometre as the hotel was on the other side of a divided road. With great difficulty, he turned the bus into the narrow driveway of the hotel, unloaded us and our luggage as quickly as possible and was out of there on his way back to Dubrovnik like a scalded cat.

That's when the real fun began! No hotel reservations! Apparently the Kompas people in Ljubljana had neglected to pass the relevant details on to the hotel. There we were - no driver and no reservations. After some phone calls, the problem was sorted out and the hotel did have enough rooms available for us to stay. We deposited our luggage in our rooms and headed for the beach. When I say beach, I mean the place where the Adriatic sea washes up onto coarse, but colourful gravel. The beach was over a kilometre long and, being the early part of the season, was not quite empty but the cafe strip a little back from the water was quite active with vendors putting the finishing touches to their many stalls. The many empty deckchairs and umbrellas gave us an indication of what the high season must be like in this place.

After our walk, we settled on dinner in the hotel - a little disappointing for the price. A thunderstorm greeted us as we headed for bed. Let's hope the new day dawns a little brighter.

Last Day in Beautiful Dubrovnik

We woke up to a beautiful sunny day! The view from our room is simply stunning! Wish I could share it with you - the photos will not do it justice!
I (Jill this time) am still coughing and rattling (deep down) so, seeing the doctor was on the to-do list for today.

After breakfast Liz, Ron and I headed off to collect the laundry. On route I had a malfunction and sprang a leak requiring me to return to the hotel at a hasty pace - read between the lines here - sorry I know it will be too much information for some of our bloggers! Liz and Ron continued on to Emily’s. Due to the rain yesterday, Emily had to put our washing through the dryer - added to the cost - but she also ironed everything that could be ironed. Liz asked Emily for a recommendation for a doctor. Liz and Ron returned with the laundry and instructions about where to head for the doctor. John had been in the foyer for almost 3 hours trying to organise and post our last 2 blogs - as the wi-fi kept dropping out.

John, being John, kept on trying, determined to get things happening for our readers - by then I would have given up.

John accompanied me to the doctors. The ‘surgery’ was interesting and working out how to see the doctor was an experience. The doctor spoke English and was thorough and gentle. I now know it is not the flu that I have - it is bronchitis. I’ve never had that before but yes, there’s a first time for everything! He prescribed antibiotics for a week. When I got my purse out to pay he said ‘No, it is OK , it is free’. We know that is not how the system works so maybe, there was just going to be too much paperwork to do.

On our return to the hotel, John went back to the computer. The others had all headed out on their individual missions. Liz and I ended up getting a bus back to Babin Kuk (where our first hotel in Dubrovnik, The Argossy, was located) to have a look in some shops there. We then caught another bus and headed back to the old town for Liz to purchase a water colour painting. I took her photo with the artist.

The bus ticket situation here is if you buy a ticket from the newspaper stand it is cheaper (8 k= $1.30) than paying for the ticket on the bus (10k= $2). The ticket can be used to go anywhere, with multiple stops, for one hour only. Of course there are special passes that the locals have, but for tourists here for a short time that’s the done thing. We only just made it by 1 minute to use the ticket to return to Luka Dubrovnik near our hotel.

Since then we have all been down to the little restaurant, very close to the hotel, for our last dinner in Croatia. We have provided good patronage for this little place. Each time we have been there everyone has been happy with their order.

I am now back in our room - the lights sparkling out over the water - boats coming and going and a large liner being loaded with people and vehicles. We believe it is an overnighter to Italy. I am about to finish this blog and then repack the suitcase ready for our 9 am pick up in the morning heading to Montenegro.

Mostar and Medugorje

Tony arrived early and off we went. He is 32, speaks excellent English and is a delightful young man. Unfortunately, the weather was not kind to us - cloudy, cool and threatening rain. The 8 of us (minus luggage, as this was only a day trip) packed ourselves into an 8 seater van. Needless to say it was cosy. Marie had decided that Jill, Liz and I were the “unclean”, so she bought some medical masks for all to wear. We certainly looked a sight sitting there with our green masks, trying to look as if we weren’t at all contagious to the rest of the world.


The first part of the trip required us to retrace our journey into Dubrovnik from the north. The winding coastal road was a challenge for me, sitting in the middle between Jill and Marie, trying not to lean too heavily either way as we sped around the tight corners. Our first stop was at a small town just north of Dubrovnik where the summer house of the Yugoslavian dictator, Marshall Tito still stands. The old mansion has been left derelict because of political indecision between Croatian and Serbian governments - apparently neither wants the expense of its upkeep. This is a great pity because the old building is certainly a grand old piece of architecture that is simply rotting away.

We crossed the border into Bosnia - the guards fell about laughing when they saw our masks and Tony’s explanation that we were protecting ourselves from each other brought forth more whoops of laughter. Then back out again - remember, dear reader that this section of the Croatian coast has a small section that belongs to Bosnia. When we reached the delta of the Neretva River, we turned off the coast road and headed inland. Arriving at the real Bosnian border, we prepared our passports and were waved through with more grins - this time the guards asked Tony what mysterious disease we had. We began the climb up into the mountains - the rain began to fall in earnest.

The next stop was Medjugorje, a once small town, where a vision of the Virgin Mary appeared before 6 children in 1981. Since then, of course, the town has mushroomed with accommodation facilities springing up and extending the town limits - there are about 10,000 beds for rent now and still growing! When we arrived, Tony said that he had not seen so many buses in the car park as we pulled up. When we got out, we could hear singing and voices over a loud speaker system. As we got closer, we saw a huge outdoor mass in progress - if they had all stayed, every one of those beds for rent would have been snapped up! We mingled with the crowd and inspected the souvenir shops - every possible religious knick knack that is in existence sat in the many shops which lined the main street. As Liz said later: “I didn’t know there were so many different types of rosary beads!” As usual, I had an ice-cream - vanilla for me and apricot for Jill (that’s for you Jo!).

After a long wait to get out of the carpark, we set off for Mostar, which is in a valley further into the mountains. The final drop from the heights into the Mostar valley makes the trip down Bulli Pass look like travelling across a level field! Mostar is a very interesting place. It is known as the melting pot of cultures. The Neretva River flows through the town and once, it was the dividing line between the Islamic and Christian inhabitants of the area. The bridge that spans the river has one of the most graceful arches one could imagine. For over 400 years it was considered a symbolic link between east and west. Its destruction during the Bosnian conflict in 1991 was a terrible blow to the city and its reconstruction and opening in 2004 was given world-wide prominence in the news. Tony dropped us off on the eastern side of the bridge and we crossed the bridge in the rain - not an easy task as the arch is quite steep and gets slippery in the rain. We have seen this bridge featured on Getaway. We didn’t actually see anyone dive off the bridge as shown on the show - but did see the Bridge Divers Club room.

As we entered the western side of the old town, we were rounded up by a pretty Bosnian lass acting as a hawker outside the many restaurants that lie tucked away off the narrow cobbled street that winds through the old town. We were grateful for the invitation - it was raining and the cobbles were quite slippery - we needed a break. After leading us through 3 more restaurants, up and down several flights of stairs, we were shown to a long table sitting in a cave under shelter right beside the river with a superb view of the old bridge. The waiter who attended us could speak German and Gert came to our rescue, translating the various dishes. I tried something I couldn’t pronounce - a local specialty - and waited with some trepidation. The mysterious meal turned out to be small skinless sausages, served with fries and salad - quite tasty!

Jill ordered the hamburger and got the same meat, fries and salad, the only difference being that the meat on her plate was something like a large flat meat pattie - the taste was identical! The bread for the hamburger was what was served in the basket for the table - certainly nothing like a traditional hamburger. Again cats were everywhere - they kept creeping in and out through the rocks! Ron witnessed one cat leaving a ‘message’ on Steve’s rain jacket. I think if the opportunity had arisen either Ron or Steve would have liked to see how well the cats could swim.

Following the meal, we made our way back to the main street - it was souvenir time - I managed another ice-cream! We crossed back into the eastern side and the difference in architecture was most noticeable - a definite Moorish influence. It was the same for the souvenir shops - more Moorish influence in the products on sale - water pipes, patterned dishes, the odd fez and curved knives - just like the tales of a thousand and one nights! The rain didn’t let up so we made it back to the van a little damp but otherwise intact.

Back across the border into Croatia - more strange looks from the border guards but no hassles. Ron was most disappointed that none of the border guards had asked for passports - he has a new one and would like to get some stamps in it!

The next stop was Ston, a small town well known for it’s salt production that also has a city wall that rivals the Great Wall of China - not in size but in spectacle as it extends up over high ridges and plunges into steep valleys. The challenge was on to walk the wall as we had done in China several years age. The combination of rain and the ‘flu was enough for Jill and I to pass, so it was left to Liz, Marie and Dave to be the Aussie stalwarts. The sign said that to walk from point A to point B would take about 15 minutes. Half an hour later the trio emerged triumphant, but wet and we all boarded the bus for our last stop before reaching Dubrovnik.

Pocitelja was our last stop. After a bit of a climb we came to a ‘working’ mosque. There were many interesting artifacts and ruins. Of course there was the prescribed little row of tempting shops. There was also a dear old lady ‘flogging’what we believe to be her produce - strawberries, cherries, prunes, figs and apricots. Some of our group purchased from her. Jill had a fig and enjoyed it.

Some 45 minutes later we arrived back at our hotel Petka. It was still raining and we were a little weary so Liz sent a text message to Emily, our obliging laundry lady, asking if we could collect our laundry tomorrow due to the circumstances - it was no problem!

Return to Dubrovnik

We had one heck of a storm last night - the second last night on board. I had hung out some washing on the line outside the cabin. When I realised how bad the storm was, I feared the washing would blow away. I didn’t fancy some fish coming across my shorts and pink undies so I headed out of the cabin. Oops - no clothes! - no pegs either! Oh well! When I surfaced this morning here were my articles of clothing back on the line! Tony - one of the crew - had collected all the washing and then hung it all out again for us! All of the crew were so thoughtful and wonderful.

As we departed Sipan I took some more photos of the island - such extremes from the elegant hotel to the delapidated huge old villas! There was no doubt that fishing is the island’s main employ.

We were fortunate to have smooth sailing conditions as we headed back to our starting point, Dubrovnik. There was nothing to do except relax on the deck!

As we approached Dubrovnik the captain veered slightly from the program by sailing past the Old Town. This was a wonderful opportunity to view the city walls from the sea. It inspired us to head to the fort once we had docked!

As I have said before, the boats dock side by side. We ended up being the 4th boat out until one had to leave - they then did a reshuffle and we came into 2nd position. After going searching for a pharmacy to purchase some cold and flu tabs - Liz is the 3rd one of our group to succumb to Croatian Flu - we boarded a bus to the old town and proceeded to climb the fort.

What a stunning view! We kept telling Ron there were only 10 steps! - he has ankle trouble and is deterred by lots of steps! He was a real trouper and kept on climbing up and then down again - which for him is just as difficult!

After our expedition we sat down for refreshments - John and I had tea with rum (for medicinal purposes!). Of course, that provided Liz and I with the stamina to do a little shopping! Ron bought Liz a beautiful addition for her Pandora - gold and silver - for her birthday. I had no special occasion but still bought a pair of gold earrings.

I wanted to purchase some croatian embroidery and needed to enter many shops to ‘sus’ them out. I struck the jackpot by finding a shop where the woman made most of her own work. She was busy at her craft when we entered her store. Embroidery is a dying art - her granmother had passed the knowledge on to her.

Arriving back at the boat we soon decided that a light dinner was in order so all the ‘girls’ put into kitty and went to the supermarket to ‘gather’ our supplies. (Ron has a saying about ‘hunters and gatherers’!).

We ‘gathered’ a scrumptious selection of cheeses, cold meats, olives, breads, mixed salad, pates, various other spreads, strawberries, cherry strudel and only just went over budget! We were very fortunate to have Rose (the croatian passenger) to assist in working out exactly what we were getting - even with Rose, it was a challenge as her English is minimal - but much better than our Croatian - of course the pictures on the labels were useful too. Needless to say we enjoyed our meal. The crew were again wonderful allowing us to use their plates and cutlery - Leanne and Mark assisted Vlasta (the cook - she is actually an English professor) with the washing up in the galley. The crew joined in with our celebrations. Dancing, singing, drinking, laughing - a great time was had by all! That night we were the party boat!

After a good night’s sleep it was up to pack and enjoy our last breakfast on board. Today is Liz’s birthday and also Slavko and Rose’s wedding anniversary. The crew presented Liz and the Croatian couple with flowers! John and I gave Liz a magnet written in Croatian that says ‘a journey travelled with a friend is never long’. Not a real surprise that it was a unique gift for Liz.

We disembarked at 9 am and again, like in a conga, but with suitcases, headed 200 metres across the road to our hotel, Petka, where we will spend 3 nights. The view from our room is superb. We were able to see ‘our’ boat, Papa Prvi, from the balcony of our respective rooms.

Liz and I both needed a laundromat but after asking questions from many sources we had ‘found no joy’. I had one of my few ‘wow’ moments and suggested we try one of the villas offering accomodation. ‘Joy’ at last on the first go. A lovely lady (with a lovely dog) was happy to assist. When we took our washing to her, she also gave us a tour of her apartments. We were very impressed and would have tried to organise staying there if we had known about the place prior to booking the hotel rooms.

We all ended up at a little restaurant very close to both the villa and the hotel for a happy hour and then dinner.

Liz has excelled herself with her organisation of this trip. I highly recommend her if you wish to plan a trip!!!- travel agent extroadinaire! Tatjana, our Slovenian guide, suggested Liz contact her friend, Tony, to do a day trip to Mostar and Medugorje. Liz contacted him and organised a great deal! We are being picked up at the hotel at 9 am in the morning for a full day excursion.